Day 3 - an early start

Believe it or not, we were on the road by 5:30. Well, strictly speaking not actually on the road because the man who unlocks the camp gates couldn’t! Eventually, after two trips back to the camp for spare keys he returned with an assistant and a pair of bolt cutters.

We had planned to drive up to Mata Mata – a camp right on the Namibian border and about 120km from Twee Rivieren. With a park speed limit of 50kph, coupled with gravel/sand roads, we reckoned this would take us about 3 hours – allowing for stops to ogle the animals, assuming we were lucky enough to see any! In the event we saw, and stopped for so many that after 4 hours we had covered only some 70 of the 120km. The girls (junior) informed Gill and me (by what they called an “executive decision”) that rather than pressing on just for the sake of it, we should turn around and head for home. Which we duly did.

We saw quite a few animals today – Sprinkbok by the hundred, Blue Wildebeest (Gnus to Flanders and Swan fans) by the dozens, Gemsbok aplenty, several Ostriches, 4 Black Backed Jackals, 4 Giraffes, a solitary Steenbok – but no Partridge in a Pear Tree. On the bird front there were several Eagles and Vultures, a couple of Kori Bustards (at up to 19Kg, the heaviest flying bird in the world), several Crimson-breasted Shrikes and Forktailed Drongos, a Secretary Bird, numerous Sociable Weavers and Doves, and hundreds of what, in the ornithological world, are referred to as LBJs (Little Brown Jobs).

Sadly, no signs of Lion, Leopard or Cheetah – but you can’t win ‘em all. All in all a most enjoyable day. Not to mention relaxing, once we got back to the camp.

The rest of the day has been (and will continue to be) full of frenzied inactivity, intermingled with more Steven King, splashes in the pool, and a couple of splashes in the glass for good measure.

Tomorrow morning we head off home – although the plan at this stage is to call in at Augrabies Falls (spectacular waterfalls on the Orange River just below Upington) for a few hours on the way. It means a 200-odd km detour, but is well worth it. In any event, if I have my way, it will be a leisurely journey – not a mad dash for the finishing line. Tomorrow’s starting time remains to be seen – there has been talk of 5am, 6am and 7am – but we’re on holiday, so who cares!

Day 2 - evening game drive

Louise & I went out for a late afternoon drive around 17:30. I must admit that I wasn’t really expecting to see very much in the way of wildlife – the temperature was still over 40, and any animals with the slightest bit of sense would still be catching 40 zzzzs under a tree somewhere.

Nevertheless, we did see quite a few beasties of different kinds, although all of them were quite some distance away – typically 100-200 m at best. The only animal we saw reasonably close up was a Gemsbok – but it took me by surprise and by the time I got my camera out and ready it had wandered off into the distance!

Nevertheless we did manage to see quite a few species, and some of my pix aren’t too bad (?).

We got back to the camp just before closing time at 19:30 – just in time for a shower and change, and then a bite of supper in the restaurant.

And now a reasonably early night with a view to a 5:30 start in the morning for all of us. The plan is to drive up to Mata Mata for lunch, with hopefully lots of game to be viewed on the way.

So we’ll see what happens when I try to rouse the troops at 05:00 tomorrow morning. If I wake up myself!







































Bloody fool, Downs. It's a Secretary Bird, not an Eagle.

Day 2 - chock full of activity and excitement!

At this time of year the camp gates are closed at night between 19:30 and 05:30. This is done to prevent dumb humans from wandering around the park in the dark and getting themselves eaten by lions, cheetahs and ground squirrels.

So, when we went to bed last night our plan for this morning (well, my plan at least) was to be up and out of the camp as soon as the gates were opened at 05:30. That way there is a chance of getting to see some of the animals before the heat of the day gets into gear. I was the first one to wake – at 08:30! So plan A was abandoned in favour of plan B – which involved a late breakfast (accompanied by one of the ubiquitous ground squirrels), a swim in the camp pool, and a large chunk of a Steven King novel (Desperation).

So far, a totally idle day – but what a pleasure. I can’t remember the last time I was so relaxed. Same for Gill. Theoretically we could be just as relaxed at home, but of course that never works – there are always things to be done in the house, the garden, the pool area, the office or wherever. Of course, so far as Louise and Tisha are concerned it’s been just a pretty normal day!

It still amazes me that I can sit here in the middle of the Kalahari Desert, 300km from any civilisation (no radio or TV reception – fantastic!), but still be able write this on my laptop and publish it on the Internet – thanks to some reasonable cell phone coverage.

It’s now 15:30, and the afternoon temperature is in full swing at 46C – although there is a little bit of a breeze.

I’ve just advised the girls that I intend to drive out into the park around 17:30 for a couple of hours to see what wildlife there is to be seen as the day begins to cool down a bit, and also to see what I can find to photograph. Louise said that sounded like a good idea, and may well join me. Tisha and Gill remained strangely silent!

So, for the next hour or two, back to the pool and Desperation. Then out into darkest Africa. If this proves to be my last posting, then you’ll know that the squirrels got me.

Day 1 - the drive to the park

Well, needless to say our plans to depart at 4am came to nothing. Louise and Tish had sat up all night playing Monopoly with some friends. But they didn't wake me and most unusually I overslept. We eventually departed (for the first time) at 5:30. Then, 30km into the journey, I realised that I had left our booking receipt on my desk! I thought that it probably wouldn't matter - surely in this computerised age the camp would have evidence of my booking? Nevertheless I decided to return home to collect it anyway - just in case.

So, at 6:15 we departed for the second time.

We did the first 400km to Upington and were sitting having breakfast by 9:15. This, like any Downs trip, had to incorporate a Wimpy breakfast, otherwise I sulk for the rest of the journey. We left Upington around 10:30 and eventually arrived at Twee Rivieren (Two Rivers) just on 13:00 - with the temperature hovering around the 40 mark. The road up to the park is much better than it used to be - all but the last 50km is now tarred. And even the untarred stretch is not too bad - 80kph can be maintained without too much effort.

The journey, as always, is fairly long and hot, but not unbearably so. As in the past we saw numerous trees (and telephone poles) full of the enormous nests created by the sociable weaver birds - some of them appear to be the size of a car.

For the last part of the journey the road follows the dry bed of the Nossop river. Once when I was here in 1988 (when we had some pretty bad flooding all around South Africa), the Nossop was actually flowing for the first time in many years - and I witnessed the unusual sight of Springbok standing in a foot of running water and all looking somewhat perplexed. But not this year - no sign of any water anywhere.

When I went to check in at reception I discovered that indeed it wouldn't have mattered if I'd left my receipts behind - they're actually pretty well jacked up. Not only did they have all my details on their system, but they even had indemnity forms printed out ready for me to sign. All in all, a very pleasant surprise to find such efficiency in a government department in our "new" South Africa.

Off to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

Louise is home for Christmas. Having acquired her Honours BSc in Genetics last December (from Pretoria University), she has been living and working in the UK since January. The "living" bit is near Newmarket in Suffolk (80 odd miles north east of London), and the "working" bit involves genetics research at the Animal Health Trust.

Tomorrow morning we (Gill, Louise, Tish & I) leave for a few days in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park - which used to be known as the Kalahari Gemsbok Park.

It's a 650km drive north-west of Kimberley and is likely to be somewhat warmer as well. And the last couple of days in Kimberley have been around the 38-40 C mark.

We will be staying in one of the chalets at Twee Rivieren - the camp at the southernmost gate. The accent will be on relaxation and watching the grass grow - or rather, watching the sand shift!

We plan to leave around 4am - but we'll see how successfully we achieve that target!